


Jonggak <Hayan Gorae>. A generous, well-composed spread of twelve kinds of jeotgal, whelk doenjang, rich dried pollack soup, a tasting portion of suyuk, ssam vegetables, and side dishes. Where else in Seoul can you eat like this? Each jeotgal is clean and excellent, and the small amount of meat is no issue. There is far more food than it first appears; I felt ready to burst.
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