


Itaewon <Middle Reaches of the Yangtze>. Set B: lotus-root rib soup, laziji, mapo tofu, and dumplings. Everything is clean and beautifully balanced, without a single abrasive edge. The lotus-root rib soup had such a deep, full broth that I emptied the bowl. The laziji and mapo tofu carried less of a spice kick than expected, seemingly designed to reduce polarization. The dumplings were good too.
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